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Introducing a New Cat to a Resident Dog

Dogs and cats can get along. Dogs tend to want to chase the little furballs around and cats of course go on the defensive. Rover may not be too happy with this new addition with the very sharp painful things at the end of their legs. Dont think the cat will teach him either because of claw contact! You may be dishing out money at the vets if you allow them to fight it out themselves.

Make sure your dog knows the basic commands such as sit, stay, no, lay down etc. If he doesn't, now is a good time to teach them. The introduction process will be a lot easier if one of the subjects will listen to you. Even if your dog already knows commands, work on obeying commands in return for a treat.

Confine the new cat to one medium-sized room with its litter box, food, water, and a bed. Feed the dog and the newcomer near either side of the CLOSED door to this room. Place the food far enough way from the door so that the animals will eat without being upset by each other's presence. This will help to start things out on the right foot (paw) by associating something enjoyable (eating). Gradually move the dishes closer to the door until the animals can eat calmly, directly on either side of the CLOSED door. Next, use two doorstops to prop the door open just enough to allow the animals to see each other, and repeat the whole process.

After the animals have become comfortable eating on either side of the door, and have been exposed to each other's scents as stated above, you can attempt a face to face introduction in a controlled manner. Put your dog's leash on, and tell him to either sit or down and stay, using healthy treats. Have someone else come into the same room and place kitty on their lap. The cat should also be offered some healthy treats. At first, the cat and dog should be on OPPOSITE sides of the room. Repeat this step several times until both the cat and dog are tolerating each other without fear, aggression, or other uncontrollable behavior. Long sleeve shirts are recommended.

Next, move the animals a little closer together, with the dog still on leash and the cat gently held in a lap. If the cat does not like to be held, you can use a crate or carrier instead. If the dog gets up from the "stay" position, it should be firmly repositioned, and praised and rewarded for obeying the "stay" command. If the cat becomes frightened, increase the distance between the animals and progress more slowly. Eventually, the animals should be brought close enough together to allow them to investigate each other.

Although your dog must be taught that chasing or being rough with the cat is unacceptable behavior, your dog must also be taught how to behave appropriately (e.g., sitting, coming when called, or lying down), and be rewarded for doing so. If your dog is often punished when the cat is around and never has "good things" happen in the cat's presence, your dog may redirect aggression toward the cat.

During the introduction process, you may want to keep your dog on leash and with you when the cat is free in the house. Be sure that your cat has an escape route, and a place to hide. Keep the dog and cat separated when you are not home until you are certain the cat will be safe. Eventually your dog and cat will become friends.

NOTES: Dogs like to eat cat food because it is very high in protein, and therefore very delicious. You should keep the cat food out of the dog's reach. Why dogs like to "raid the litter box" is not well understood, but eating cat feces is a relatively common behavior. Although there are no health hazards to the dog from this habit, owners tend not to appreciate it. Unfortunately, attempts to keep the dog out of the litter box or punishment after the fact will NOT change the dog's behavior. The best solution is to place the litter box where the dog cannot access it Ð such as behind a baby gate or in a closet with the door anchored open (from both sides) just wide enough for the cat.

For more info, call Pet Network Animal Friends of Nevada at (775)832-4404, or write. You may also contact Suzanne Hetts, Ph.D., Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist, Animal Behavior Associates, Inc., 4994 S. Independence Way, Littleton, CO 80123. (303)932-9095.